VITAMIN C


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by FEM


Maneuvering in this flood of products and ingredients nowadays is so difficult and time-consuming. Ain't nobody got time for that. What works and what doesn't? What does a particular ingredient do? Let us take that off your mind. Use the #glossary tag in the search bar and you'll get explanations of how specific ingredients work, how to use them, and (best of all) product recommendations. Life just got a little easier.

WHY VITAMIN C?

Because it's great! It is the most talked about ingredient of 2017. Vitamin C is naturally present in the skin, but its amount decreases with aging and environmental factors. In addition to aging, which unfortunately cannot be stopped, there are also other factors that decrease Vitamin C in the body. Like UV radiation, air pollution and smoking. Well, we're no longer in the reign of Kate Moss, cigarettes are over. Throw your cigs in the bin and put that vit C on your face. The damage may still be repairable. Science says the following: Vitamin C is hard core when it comes to fighting free radicals caused by the factors listed above. In combination with Vitamin E, it builds protection against the harmful effects of UV rays and reduces skin inflammation, which is a product of solar exposure. It is also one of the key ingredients responsible for collagen synthesis. This simplified means smoother skin and less wrinkles. However, its effect on skin brightening (adios pigmentation) has also been reported as it reduces melanin production and its oxidation. The correlation between vitamin C, wound healing and scars has not been scientifically studied yet. But there are many positive reviews when it comes to scarring from acne.

WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR?

There are lots of Vitamin C types but by far the most well- known and the most studied is ascorbic acid (L-ascorbic acid). This one is the most effective in topical application but unfortunately the least stable in solutions. When it comes into contact with air, heat and light, it begins to fall apart. Be careful when buying Vitamin C products that the packaging of a product is protected against all three factors. Look for ones that are packed in dark bottles and preferably have a pump dispenser. If the product changes color, throw it away immediately! There is no joking with vitamin C. If the color of the serum is copper-ish or brown- ish, it means that the product has been oxidized and will only do damage to your skin. Also, be careful not to buy an already defective product, which can happen because of the delicate stability of vitamin C. The pH of the solution containing the vitamin should be below 4, better even below 3.5. The maximum concentration of vitamin C solutions should be 20%. The absorption intensity begins to decline steeply after this rate. The best absorption and minimum irritation will be achieved with a 10% - 15% concentration.

HOW TO USE IT?

Due to its antioxidant properties, vitamin C is best applied in the morning. This way it will prevent the damage caused by UV rays and air pollution. If the serum is excessively sticky, it can be applied in the evening instead of in the morning. It is also nice to allow a little time for absorption before applying any other serums or creams. About five minutes is fine. This way the likelihood of irritation or contradiction with other products will be much smaller. Vitamin oxidation can also occur upon contact with other products or water. So, make sure your face is dry when applying serum. Vitamin C's best friend is Vitamin E (Tocopherol). Ferulic acid is also great. His worst enemy, however, is Niacinamide. Retinol is not in the best of relations either, so use it at different times of the day. Vitamin C in the morning, retinol in the evening.

WHAT TO INVEST IN?

Kiehl's Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate
The most advertised and beloved in the world of beauty editors, and of all other mortals. A bottle that ticks off all the requirements, water-free, with two different variants of Vitamin C in one formulation.

Paula's Choice C15 Super Booster
15% Vitamin C concentration with Vitamin E supplement and ferulic acid. In other words - the elixir of unicorn tears! People will think that you just came out of your mother's womb. Without the added mucus and blue skin tone of course.

The Ordinary Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution
We're at The Ordinary again. Their buget formulations are actually really great. A super transitional drug for all skincare junkies with a slim wallet. Despite its modest ingredients (contains only 2!), The solution is extremely stable and the vitamin C concentration is ideal.

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic
The angel of dermatological cosmetics. Most expensive on the list but at the same time most beloved and frequently awarded serum containing Vitamin C. Also included his best friend Vitamin E. And ferulic acid for a super sexy "ménage à trois".

QUICK SUMMARY

- for all skin types (treat sensitive skin a little more carefully and start with less concentration)
- fights aging and harmful effects of the environment
- brightens pigment spots and helps in skin healing (scars)
- participates in the formation of collagen in the skin
- for a super powerful effect combine it with Vitamin E and/or ferulic acid
- must be properly packaged (dark bottle, preferably per pump)
- copper color is a sign to dump it
- does not go well with Niacinamide
- use retinol and AHA/BHA acids at opposite parts of the day because of irritation
- it is best to apply it in the morning on a dry face with a 5-minute break for absorption

 


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